Biryani Bloopers

Biryani – the word immediately tickles the senses with the tantalising aroma of various Indian spices & basmati rice. This intricate and flavorful preparation is quite popular across the Indian subcontinent and is a mixed rice dish with layers of spicy masala using either meat, eggs or vegetables. Ingredients vary according to the region and the types of meat used. I’ve tried the Kolkata Biryani, the Hyderabad Biryani & the Dindigul Biryani – all varied and supremely delicious!

One memory that the word ‘Biryani’ never fails to resurrect is of a time when I had just begun experimenting in the kitchen. During the summer holidays, my Goan cousins and I would make it a point to go for a picnic somewhere – sometimes it was Colva Beach with its silvery, white sand, very often it was Old Goa (don’t ask me how often we went there), and once, it was a day at Kullem, or what we called Kolem.  Here, there is a little waterfall and lake/stream that is quite popular with tourists today. At the time of when I am writing, the place was not as well-known and so, made for a blessed retreat from the scorching Indian sun.

Now, coming back to my story, my cousins had planned a day trip to this place in Kolem and, as we were wont to do, we decided to prepare a meal to take along with us. So, we settled on the usual sandwiches and chorisio-pav and, in a moment of over-confidence, decided to prepare some Biryani. That, I must shame-facedly admit, was my idea.

Assisted by my cousin, I set about preparing the meal. We marinated the chicken, ground the spices, steamed the rice etc. etc. and after a little over an hour, our biryani was ready.

Buzo, our dog, had been hovering around our ankles ever since he smelt the meat in the kitchen, so we spooned a little of the biryani into his plate so he could enjoy it as well. Strangely, he gave it a few sniffs and refused to touch it at all. It just lay there on his plate all day.

The morning was spent frolicking in the cool waters at Kolem and all the excitement had us starving well before noon. Everyone dried off and grabbed a plate, all set to feast on biryani. However, with every morsel, the enthusiasm was visible dropping. Something wasn’t right, and you could see it on our faces…and in the fact that everyone was making grabs at the sandwiches and chorisio-pav. Only Xavier (God bless him) mustered up the courage to ask for second helpings of what is now famously remembered as Kawwa Biryani – that’s Crow Biryani. You never make it. You most certainly never eat it.

I don’t think anyone who was present at that picnic has ever forgotten the Kawwa Biryani. What a fiasco that was! Even though I have gotten much, much better at preparing the dish over the years, I always remember the Kawwa Biryani and smile at the memory.

Here now is my new & improved version of the Kawwa Biryani. And to set your mind at ease, let me assure you that it’s not made with Crow. I use Chicken or Mutton.

INGREDIENTS

Spices (group 01): 1.2 tbsp fennel seeds, ½ tbsp coriander seeds, 3 bay leaves, 1 small onion, sliced, 5 cloves of garlic, 1” cinnamon stick, a small piece of mace, 4 cloves, ½ big cardamom, a small piece of nutmeg & salt to taste.

Spices (group 02): 1 large onion, sliced fine, ½ tsp cumin, 6 peppercorns, 4 cloves, 4 cardamoms, 1 big cardamom.

Spice powders: 1 tbsp biryani powder (I prepare this at home, but you can always buy it from the nearest grocery store), ½ tsp red chillie powder.

Other ingredients: ½ kg basmati rice (washed & soaked), ½ kg mutton, 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste, 4-5 green chillies, ½ cup yogurt and 4 tbsp oil. 6-7 baby potatoes, par-boiled & peeled. 

METHOD

Marinate the mutton for at least two hours with the ginger-garlic paste, curds and salt to taste.

In a pressure cooker, heat 1 cup of water. Add all the spices in group 01 to the water and pressure cook for up to 2 whistles on medium flame. Add the mutton and allow it to cook for one more whistle. Release pressure immediately. Separate the meat from the stock, strain the stock & keep it aside.

In another vessel, cook the rice till ¾ cooked, drain and spread in a plate.

Heat oil and fry the baby potatoes till golden brown. Keep aside. In the same oil sauté the onions till golden brown. Drain & set aside. To the same oil, add the spices of group 02, the green chillies and the ginger garlic paste. Next add the mutton, the potatoes and the spice powders. Stir well. Pour in the stock. When it simmers gently, add in the rice ans spread evenly to cover the meat & gravy.

 Cover and cook until done.

Note: I refrain from using food colour, but you may use some if you so choose. Just blend in with some milk and sprinkle over the rice before final step of the cooking process.

*tip: at this point, I usually place on old pan between the vessel & the burner. Have found that this prevents the rice from burning and sticking to the bottom of the vessel.

Delicious, fragrant biryani is ready to eat. 

Bon Appetit!